Septime - Paris (1*)
I have to preface that I’m generally long past the Michelin tasting menu part of my food adventures. More often than not I just find myself leaving underwhelmed rather than impressed. And my wife always snarks why do I do this to myself.
Septime is the reason. Because every now and then you find the needle in the haystack that makes the whole hunt with it.
Was originally looking for a more relaxed atmosphere that we could take our 4.5 year old and overwhelmingly got recs for Septime… if you could get in. Apparently still one of the hardest reservations to get in Paris but lucked out with a lunch spot randomly opening up the week before our trip. Snagged it without hesitation.
Boy am I glad we did.
Located in a rather inconspicuous part of town (honestly no idea where it’s located), Septime is the antithesis to pretension. A place where you can imagine other chefs getting loose at their wine bar next door before chowing down on some of the most remarkably simple but wonderfully executed food. A lot of it reminded me of a fine dining version of Gjelina in Venice Beach (LA) with their string focus on seasonal ingredients.
Service: So warm and welcoming right from the moment you walk in. You get more of a feeling you’re amongst friends versus a wait staff. Saw that there were two other tables with kids and was immediately put at ease when they asked our son if he’d like one of their fresh squeezed juices. We were also fully prepared to have to spring for the full tasting menu for him but they asked if we’d like to do a paired down version for him (starter + dessert), which as parents is a pretty meaningful gesture to even have that as an option.
Food: is the star of the show. Full stop. Lunch is a 5 step menu (dinner 7) that didn’t leave us overwhelmed and bloated nor still hungry. We really felt perfectly satiated on all levels.
First course was a Stone Bass crudo that was such a delightful way to start. The sauce was so dialed in that its acidity was just enough to elevate the delicateness of the fish.
Second course probably our favorite. A charred radicchio with a more assertive but not overpowering bleu cheese sauce that balanced out the sweet caramelization from the vegetables with some a nice funky saltiness. So good.
Third was spinach with black truffle sprinkles. I for one am not impressed with truffles largely because they are often come across as an overpowering (not so) cheap party trick. Not the case here. The spinach was cooked unlike spinach I’ve had before where it was cooked right to the point where it was cooked but still had a bit of crunch to it. The two worked in such harmony with each other that you could taste both of them not just truffle.
Fourth: Roasted Duck in a chicken jus with mustard seeds and marrow. Impeccable product showcased (cooked) perfectly. My wife’s not a fan of Duck so this certainly didn’t blow her away but she did finish it. For our son’s main they made him “bbq chicken” which was a perfectly cooked chicken breast with a smoke infused pomme de terre which gave it a clever play on bbq. Was delicious.
Fifth: Tied for favorite. Ricotta sorbet with grapefruit and candied (orange?) rinds. Definitely a show stopper. The individual ingredients begin to dazzle you and then when you have the full bite together it’s pure delight. Honestly should’ve asked for a second portion.
Bonus: when I first started looking into Septime I came across a Vice Episode with Action Bronson hanging out with the Septime crew. Well lo and behold guess who serendipitously walked in to film a new video?
Bonus bonus: again the staff was incredible. Had a bit of a chat with them on the way out and gave us some great local shopping tips!
€85 - 5 step lunch tasting menu €30 - “kids” menu 5/5 - everything I could have hoped for and wanted from a 1* meal